As I reflect back on my last 3 nights in Mongolia, I'm kicking myself for two things. Firstly for not allowing myself a lot more time to spend here, and secondly for not making more of the time I had. While it's been a great experience, it hasn't been the highlight of my trip so far.

Mongolia looks like a beautiful country and the Mongolian people I had long conversations with on both overnight trains in and out of the country were wonderfully warm and friendly. In that respect it was all I hoped for.

Unfortunately in Ulaanbaatar you will find some of the problems of cities many times it's size (crime, traffic, poor housing, etc) while not finding many of the cultural riches or character found in many other capital cities.


But getting back to the point of this blog. Travel.
To appreciate Mongolia properly, you need lots of time to get out of the capital and really get lost. You need to be gone for weeks, not days.


Sadly my amazing luck in being able to bump into random interesting strangers who are looking for a good chin-wag seemed to fail me in Ulaanbaatar.
Mongolians are known for their friendliness and hospitality, so it came as a surprise to me that nobody seemed to make eye contact while walking down the street. In terms of trying to extract a smile or, god forbid, a "hi" from anybody on the street, I might as well be back in Australia. Even the hotel staff, while being polite and attentive enough, would offer no more conversation than was essential.
I'm still not exactly sure why, but It really took me the first 2.5 days to relax into Ulaanbaatar. Not only does the city look pretty bleak, there are constant warnings of pickpockets posted everywhere which kept me on edge, the open manholes that seem to be everywhere with no warning ready to swallow up pedestrians and even cars, and the drivers are the worst I've ever seen anywhere. Vietnamese drivers might be crazy, but their system works. The traffic flows, everyone gets where they need to go and everyone's happy. In Ulaanbaater, a city of just one million people, there is gridlock from 2pm to 8pm every day. People just don't care. They push into intersections they have no hope of crossing, completely blocking them for all other traffic, they speed up when they see a pedestrian, they straddle 2 lanes to prevent people getting past, and when they invariably hit a wall of traffic they just sit on the horn for 5 minutes as if they can somehow move the cars through audio telekinesis.
Because of all this, I was probably walking around with a big scowl on my face for most of the time I was there. No doubt I looked pissed off. I was pissed off. No wonder nobody wanted to talk to me.
Ironically the one thing I was most worried about; the weather, could not have been better. Yes it was cold, but it was so bright, clear, still, and sunny that it was a pleasure to be outside. I found I didn't need as many clothes as I thought, and feel a bit like I was worried about nothing. Mind you, when you wander around the "State Department Store" (think Myer in Australia) and see full-on hardcore one-piece arctic explorer suits on a rack beside bikinis and women's fashion, it reminds you where you are.

I think how much I enjoy each new city comes back to that first lesson I learned in Saigon; when I relax and go with the flow of the place I'm in, everything falls into place and becomes much more enjoyable. It's a leap of faith.
ps: One of the cool things about Ulaanbaatar is that garbage trucks drive around playing Mr Whippy music like an Ice Cream van! Seriously. I think it's even the same tune. It's to tell people to bring out their garbage.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
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